Tony Conigliaro has the Selby in his place.

Tony C is a bit of a legend in the world of bar tending. Constantly on the search for new tastes, techniques and flavours, in many ways he is treading the path Heston Blumenthal laid down, albeit this time behind the stick at 69 Colbrooke Row, not the stoves at the Fat Duck.

The Selby is a fantastic photographer who makes pictures of people in their homes, and sometimes, just their homes. Go check out the rest of the shoot here.

You’ll not only see Tony making drinks, you’ll get a peek at one of the bottles he ages his Vintage Manhattan in, infusion of rosemary in a water-bath, the fat-washers among you will stare in blind wonder at the use of centrifuge and olive oil, the rest of you will be wondering what a bartender is doing in a science lab. as always great shots, and a fascinating record of one of the areas cocktails and the drinking experience is being pushed forward.

There is also a recipe, for the cocktail pictured above. Named for the Master-at-Arms; who, on ship, doled out the rations of rum and port. It looks and sounds a doozy, but also makes use of some of the science lab to pull off a port reduction, which is going to make it extremely difficult to pull off at home. Dr. Phil will probably build his own, based on the pictures.

The Master-at-Arms

In a shaker place rock ice, then pour 50ml dark rum, 20ml port reduction, 5ml grenadine. Stir, strain into a small coupette, garnished with a sailor’s knot in fine string.

UPDATED: The Monkey Gland

This is one of Harry’s drinks. Published in 1922, his book, Harry’s ABC of mixing cocktails lays claim to it. The drink is made with Gin, orange juice, absinthe and grenadine. I’m not sure why, but this drink makes me think of Colin Peter Field from the Hemingway Bar in Paris and his rules for making cocktails. I remember, first reading, then hearing them straight for his lips.

I probably thought some of them seemed like a limiting. Ideas like only using a single base alcohol with the addition of citrus, small amounts of aromatizers and bitters. They do maybe limit complexity, but they also leave balance and subtlety, naked for you to experience. The orange juice tarts the drink with the strength of the Gin and the great finish of the absinthe.

The Monkey Gland.

50 mls of Beefeater Gin, 50 mls of orange juice, 10 mls absinthe, 10 mls grenadine. Over ice in a shaking glass, combine and shake with some vigour. Strain it up. I’ve gone with a ridiculous twist, but i’d also like to give a rockmelon hook supporting a plastic hanging monkey or absolutely nothing at all.

Confession time. I used a store bought fresh squeezed OJ that was quite sweet and used a pomegranate concentrate instead of grenadine.

There is something rewarding about the feeling you get working through the classics. One of the nice things about this drink is the story of its name. Harry was quite fond of naming drinks for the clients and things happening in their shared sphere of experience.

The Monkey gland got is name from Serge Voronoff, a French doctor of Russian extraction famous for his work inserting thin slices of monkey glands (testicles) into patients scrota to deliver exuberance and youth. UK footballers the Wolverhampton Wanderers were among those who swore by the therapy.

It’s definitely an enlivener.

 

And here is how it looks with freshly squeezed orange juice. Much better I think.